Sunday, January 28, 2007

"Shout about how great you are"

Chef John Benson-Smith wrote a great article in the local Jersey Evening post on Saturday 27th of January in which he castigates local suppliers for not shouting loud enough about the quality of their produce.

He came to the Island some 8 months ago to open the Boathouse Restauant in St. Aubin. Not knowing who the local suppliers were he found that instead of people banging on his door, he found that it was "like trying to crack the code for entering a secret society". What he has discovered is that "Jersey produce is a darn sight tastier than the fantastic produce from the UK".

If I look at my organisation. We now supply coffee and tea to two Michelin starred restaurants, namely The Ocean at the Atlantic Hotel, and Bohemia, part of The Club and Spar Hotel, as well as many other of the finest dining establishments on the Island. How many other regional roasters can boast this accomplishment? So why don't we shout about this achievement?

Well I think it's because on Jersey, people's expectations are so high. We have an incredible number of restaurants on an Island that is only 9 miles x 5 miles. The competition for a limited audience is immense and only the best survive. That means suppliers have to be on their mettle. It's no good being ordinary, you have to be extraordinary. Reputation in a small community is everything if you are to succeed, and the result is that Jersey has many great small businesses. But because they are small there are no great marketing campaigns, a lot that happens is word of mouth. I can therefore completly understand Mr. Benson-Smith's frustration.

But this leads me on to a much bigger criticism of how Jersey produce is marketed outside of the Island. I have a particular gripe as a coffee roaster.

Whilst Genuine Jersey is fine for local growers, my business isn't entitled to be a part of the party which is ridiculous! Anyone who roasts coffee will know that no matter where it comes from it is the roaster who ultimately will make or break the coffee. In the same way that clay to make pots comes from all over the world, yet it is the skill of the potter who determines whether it will turn out to be a great pot.

Nowhere was this more apparent to me than when I visited SIAL in Paris last December. This is an exhibition at which countries and regions from around the world showcase their produce. As usual Jersey was nowhere to be seen. The UK had a stand, Latvia had a stand, Tuscany had a stand, as did many other regions within Europe, and yes they even had coffee from these regions. So what the hell are we doing wrong in Jersey?

It transpires that the criteria to be on a stand from the UK is that you have to "add value" to that product within the UK, such as roast and pack coffee. At last! common sense prevailing.

Given we have an Economic development department deparate to grow our Economy wouldn't it make sense if they paid a lot more attention to the potential export opportunites that local businesses like mine can provide? Export earnings = economic growth!

Come on Economic Development, sort it out, we're doing great things here, and as Mr. Benson- Smith says "it's time Jersey stood up and shouted about why its produce is as good as it is, rather than letting it remain a delicious secret"

Friday, January 19, 2007

Jura Impressa J5 - One Hip Coffee Machine!

The latest bean to cup coffee machine from the Swiss company Jura has just arrived in our store and what a sleek looking coffee machine it is, a vision in White and Chrome.

Having brought out the C5 series to compete in the £500 - £600 price bracket, this machine appears to be attempting to fill the gap between the F90 (with its touch screen operation) and the top end Z5.

The machine is about 2 cm narrower than the Z5, however is the same depth. To accommodate this narrowing, the water tank has been reduced in size to decent 2.1 litres.

Machine operation is very simple, the fully automated cappuccino system found on the Z5 which I believe results in other buttons being made redundant has been abandoned in favour of making the coffee and milk separately. An auto-frothing device for the milk comes as standard as the traditional steam wand of earlier models is consigned to history. I'm not sure about this, but more about that later.

Let us get on with the important bit, making a cup of coffee!

The bean hopper is located as usual at the back of the machine, however a new device has now appeared entitled "Aroma protection". I hate to say it but as a coffee roaster I don't see how a plastic device with holes in it can stop flavour loss of coffee beans, maybe I missed something.

Ania felt that this device was impractical (there's a woman speaking!), and simply gets in the way without really doing anything (that's men for you!).

On the positive side the J5 has been fitted with a bean detector a feature from the Z5, which informs the user that they are low on beans.

If you choose to use pre-ground coffee, this hopper is located just in front of the grinder hopper. I say this because it took us a minute or two to find it. The manual isn't very clear, and because the lid is designed into the shape of the machine wasn't easy to spot. Once again Ania came to the rescue, it's probably Polish intuition!

The bit I do like is the programming of these machines. Jura have found a very simple system that allows a huge number of permutations. I have seen so many modern day coffee machines that need a manual to get you through the programming that in the end you give up. This is not the case with Jura. Once you understand the logic, and it is very logical you can change settings to your hearts content.

At last, the coffee. We chose to make an espresso and found that the water was running through the coffee very slowly. A simple adjustment to the grinder setting (a knob found on the top of the machine) soon saw the machine producing an excellent espresso.

I now move onto the milk. Now I'm sure this is a very British thing, and this is why I bemoan the loss of the traditional steam wand.

First of all I will say that creating steam is simple and straightforward and quick. Two button presses and you're ready.

The auto-frother is also very effective. This technology has come a long way in a very short time. By adjusting the settings on the auto-frother you can get either foam or steam milk (no bubbles).

The frothing bit I have no problems with and you get a terrific cappuccino, but the steamed milk for me is a problem. The problem is that the milk is drawn through the auto-frother so quickly that it barely has time to heat up the milk. Anyone with a smattering of Physics will know what I mean, the laws of thermodynamics.

The problem is that in the UK market, lattes are very popular a reflection of our appreciation of things American (I think that's a good thing!). Now a latte needs HOT! steamed milk, something the auto-frother is incapable of delivering no matter how much you fiddle around with it.

We were so concerned with this that we turned to the manual for help. Interestingly in the manual, they make no claim to delivering hot milk. They use the term "warm" milk. Very accurate, but why?

The simple solution surely is to supply an adaptor for the steam arm that allows you to steam milk to your hearts content. When you look in the neat little storage area on the top of the machine what do you find, an attachment for the steam arm that allows you to deliver more water! In the British market, we're all used to boiling a kettle for teas because we know of the limitations of a coffee machine (that's no disrespect to Jura, simply a fact in the UK market)

So please Jura, I know we're only an Island of 55 million people, but please can you put back our optional steam wand and get rid of the extending water spout, and we promise never complain again!

That's the only issue I have with this modern wonder of technology and I hope the message gets through to the boffins at Jura HQ.

Other than that we can't stop ourselves from stroking this machine everytime we go past, well the boys can't!

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Jersey milk (from the Island of Jersey) - Excellence in your coffee cup

A new year and a new test!

This time we at Coopers have been trying out the different types of milk readily available in the local Supermarkets and their impact on the taste of our coffee.

I had hoped to replicate the tabular format in my blog, but I'm such a luddite that I'm afraid its coming out as a list - However don't let this detract from the results!

Results of a tasting of different Jersey Dairy products in coffee carried out by Cooper & Co. on January 16th 2007

Coffee maker: French Press or Cafetière
Coffee type: Medium roasted Brazil Daterra Sunrise
Quantity of coffee used: Approx. 50g

We wanted to establish the impact of different levels of fat content on the flavour of the drink.

We used: Fresh Milk, Long life milk (UHT) and finally Cream
A desert spoon of liquid was added to each drink to ensure consistency

To understand the list, it goes as follows: Milk type, colour of drink following the addition of the milk, and finally our tasting notes.

Fresh Milk

Fresh Blue milk
(1.8% fat content)
Darkish in colour
This type of coffee maker produces a thinner style of coffee, and the Blue milk with its low fat content doesn’t do anything to enhance the flavour or sense of wateriness in the mouth

Fresh Green milk
(3% fat content)
Medium dark in colour
Slightly thicker mouth feel, with the acidity of the coffee dampened down

Fresh Yellow milk
(6% fat content)
Medium brown in colour. Some fat globules floating on the surface
Outstanding! – We all agreed that the texture in the mouth, and the way in which the flavour of the coffee was mellowed made this a wonderful drink.

Long life milk

Orange pack
(0.3% fat content)
Very dark
Sadly, quite unpleasant. The wateriness I talked about earlier is even more pronounced. If anything this milk actually increases the sense of bitterness in the mouth.

Blue pack
Currently out of stock

Yellow pack
Light brown, with noticeable globules of fat appearing on the surface of the drink
Very good - Not quite as good in the mouth as its fresh equivalent, but still really compliments the coffee taste experience.

Cream

Whipping Cream
Light brown, with as you would expect a lot of floating fat globules
Good flavour, however the cream is starting to overwhelm the coffee flavour. The two yellow milk tests certainly came through a lot better.

Double cream
Very light brown appearance. Cream struggling to dissolve into the coffee
Totally overwhelms the coffee. The only thing we could taste was the cream.

So in conclusion we believe that all coffee should use the highest fat content fresh milk (yellow) to deliver the most enjoyable cup of French Press (Cafetiere) coffee.

Isn't it infuriating that in this day and age when we are so obsessed with our levels of fat intake that we are actually spoiling our enjoyment of a great beverage.

Next week we here at Coopers will throw caution to the wind and use only Jersey fresh Yellow milk in all our drink offerings - No compromise!

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Tourism Brochures - you've got to laugh!

Those in the Tourism industry will know that the latest glossy magazines namely "Jersey Holiday Guide" and "Pure Jersey" have recently been dispatched and are in the process of hitting the door mats (people do still have door mats don't they?) of what they hope will be potential visitors to this beautiful Island.

Now I don't know who is responsible for designing these things , but I would suggest it looks very much like a committee, oh dear!

Not being au fait with the Hotel grading system I have to tread a little carefully, however I would suggest that not a great deal of imagination has gone into the layout of the Accommodation page in the "pure Jersey" brochure.

Lets start with the "Graded Hotels" - 4*, 3*, 2* 1*, so far so good, but hey what's this we've gone back up to 5*, and then 4* again. Eulah Country House Hotel should therefore by rights be at the top of the page?

But no, if you cross reference the "Jersey Holiday Guide" advertisers list on page 112, Eulah Country house appears under "Guest Accomodation!" ah, so that's why it's not at the top of the pJ guide, but then shouldn't they appear under the pJ heading of "Guest accomodation?

La Haule manor too seem to have got trapped in this nether world as well? Didn't anybody bother to proof read this?

But of course we all know (?) the diamond grading system has been done away with, well everybody apart from the Jh guide. The Lavender Villas application must have got lost in the post! Well the Jh's post, but not you'll be pleased to hear the pJ's post!

It also appears that even the advertisers are confused. Condor Breaks.com on p.52 of pJ tells us that both Mayfair and Metropole are 2* Hotels. Didn't anyone tell them that the Metropole is now 3*? I'm not quite sure what happened to the poor old Mayfair. I have a suspicion that they too are reclassified as 3*, but still appear in the 2* section. Then again I could be wrong, couldn't I?

I could go on, as a potential visitor to this Island went on to me about these brochures, but I'd probably loose the will to live!

I have tried to be humourous in this Blog, because at the end of the day we all make mistakes. What I find though really infuriating is that this industry is really under pressure at the present time and it is vital that a professional image is conveyed to potential visitors.

A business has been hired to produce this brochure for I'm sure a considerable amount of money, surely we (the people of Jersey) are entitled to expect something better than what on the face of it appear to be schoolboy errors going out to potential customers.

Friday, January 05, 2007

Coffee tasting on BBC Radio Jersey

Your chance to hear Lynsey Beahan talking to me about coffee on her Saturday morning programme between 6 a.m. and 9 a.m. on 6th January.

We did a whirlwind tasting of coffees from around the world, I'll leave it to Lynsey to give you her thoughts and impressions, but I hope that if you are a coffee lover you'll learn something about an amazing industry. Where the 3rd world meets the first world.

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Post Christmas Espresso machine issues

Well you've bought that espresso machine that you've always wanted but it appears to be doing one or two odd things that don't seem to be covered in the manual!

Well you'll be pleased to hear that you're not alone as the post Christmas dust settles.

The most common problem appears to be inadvertantly getting an airlock in the boiler of the machine. This is usually the result of the water tank running dry. The result is that no matter how much water you put in the tank the machine is unable to pump any water through the system.

The solution couldn't be easier:

1. Switch off the machine
2. Place a cup under the steam wand and open the valve
3. Switch on the machine
4. Press or switch to "on" the button /knob that usually drives the water through the coffee. After a few seconds the water should start to come through the steam wand.
5. Close the steam valve and move the cup to under the "group head" (that's where the coffee group handle is placed). Water should now start to pour through the group head.
6. Turn off the pump and wait for the machine to heat up.

Problem solved!

The second issue has been one of the coffee apparently being cold despite a good extraction having been achieved.

In the UK at this time that's usually the result of using a cold cup.

If you warm up your machine properly before making the coffee, why not leave the cup under the group handle and run the warming water into it. Tip away the water and hey presto you have one warmed cup!

The final issue has been making a Latte.

The problem is that all the attachments fitted to steam wands these days are designed to make frothing the milk easy. That of course is based on the assumption that you want to make a Cappuccino. But a Latte only requires steamed milk and you really don't want to start microwaving it, otherwise what is the point of buying a fancy machine.

This is one issue that is challenging and I do think that machine manufacturers should look at their design criteria. Solutions have been found on machines that cost £500 +, but what happened to the £100 + machines given the technology is so simple?

My suggestion is to heat the milk using the steam wand in the normal way. You need the milk to be around 10 degrees hotter for a Latte than for a Cappuccino.

Once you've heated the milk to the desired temperature, tap the container on the counter top. This will have the effect of separating out the liquid from the foam within the container.

Next get a spoon and use it to hold back the foam as you pour the milk into your coffee cup. The liquid milk should pour out easily from under the foam. The limitation is the fact that you are left with a lot of unwanted foam hence my plea to manufacturers.

That sums up the main issues we've seen so far. I'll post any additional tips as they come in.

Happy New Year!

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Consumerism v A caring society

It’s around this time of year that the financial press determines who the winners and losers in the battle for the pound in our pocket were over the Christmas period. Has the Internet now got the upper hand or is there still a future for the high street?

One of the battles that has been raging over the last few years has been the rights and wrongs of maintaining what a number of people see as the anachronistic and restrictive Sunday trading laws. As the owner of a business on Jersey I too have been paying a lot of attention to the changing shopping habits of our customers.

The argument has always been that there is no point in opening on a Sunday as you are simply spreading customer spending over seven days rather than six with the additional costs that that incurs. This thinking runs against what is happening in the UK where 24 hour shopping has now become commonplace particularly amongst the big players such as Tesco. Is this them being greedy, or are they simply responding to the demands made by their customers? After all the Internet doesn’t stop on Sunday. Society is changing, traditional hours of work; 9 – 5, Monday to Friday are increasingly being replaced by much more flexible arrangements. Not unreasonably therefore businesses in the UK have responded by extending their opening hours reflecting the lifestyle of their customers.

This December I saw for the first time real enthusiasm from shoppers wishing to shop in St. Helier on Sunday. As someone who has been totally against Sunday shopping even in December this was painful to behold. I have always believed in keeping Sunday special, however I can’t help feeling a little old fashioned when clearly so many people look forward to the opportunity.

There was even disagreement within the Market Traders normally a bastion of tradition as to the wisdom of remaining closed on Christmas eve, even though it “inconveniently” fell on a Sunday. They did stay closed but was that a sensible business decision given that so many of their competitors remained open? Or is that not really the point?

Have we become so obsessed with “shopping till we drop” that we’ve forgotten why Christmas and Sunday is so special and must continue to be respected?

I don’t believe that we really have; my second experience was on the Saturday before Christmas when in a farmers shed in deepest Trinity over 700 people didn’t go shopping, but instead came together to watch a traditional nativity play involving children and animals in a draughty barn. Why?

Was it a guilty conscience, the need to put “Christ back into Christmas?” or was it something deeper, a realisation of the importance of sharing something special with fellow human beings? Isn’t it at times like this that we truly value being part of a caring society?

So if we give up Sunday as an “official” day of rest what might be the consequences to our society? It’s not about more people going to Church, but about families being given an opportunity to do something together. Watch a son or daughter playing sport, sitting around a table together without the need to be somewhere, and yes even going to Church.

As always in society we have a choice, what choices will we make in 2007?