Sunday, January 28, 2007

"Shout about how great you are"

Chef John Benson-Smith wrote a great article in the local Jersey Evening post on Saturday 27th of January in which he castigates local suppliers for not shouting loud enough about the quality of their produce.

He came to the Island some 8 months ago to open the Boathouse Restauant in St. Aubin. Not knowing who the local suppliers were he found that instead of people banging on his door, he found that it was "like trying to crack the code for entering a secret society". What he has discovered is that "Jersey produce is a darn sight tastier than the fantastic produce from the UK".

If I look at my organisation. We now supply coffee and tea to two Michelin starred restaurants, namely The Ocean at the Atlantic Hotel, and Bohemia, part of The Club and Spar Hotel, as well as many other of the finest dining establishments on the Island. How many other regional roasters can boast this accomplishment? So why don't we shout about this achievement?

Well I think it's because on Jersey, people's expectations are so high. We have an incredible number of restaurants on an Island that is only 9 miles x 5 miles. The competition for a limited audience is immense and only the best survive. That means suppliers have to be on their mettle. It's no good being ordinary, you have to be extraordinary. Reputation in a small community is everything if you are to succeed, and the result is that Jersey has many great small businesses. But because they are small there are no great marketing campaigns, a lot that happens is word of mouth. I can therefore completly understand Mr. Benson-Smith's frustration.

But this leads me on to a much bigger criticism of how Jersey produce is marketed outside of the Island. I have a particular gripe as a coffee roaster.

Whilst Genuine Jersey is fine for local growers, my business isn't entitled to be a part of the party which is ridiculous! Anyone who roasts coffee will know that no matter where it comes from it is the roaster who ultimately will make or break the coffee. In the same way that clay to make pots comes from all over the world, yet it is the skill of the potter who determines whether it will turn out to be a great pot.

Nowhere was this more apparent to me than when I visited SIAL in Paris last December. This is an exhibition at which countries and regions from around the world showcase their produce. As usual Jersey was nowhere to be seen. The UK had a stand, Latvia had a stand, Tuscany had a stand, as did many other regions within Europe, and yes they even had coffee from these regions. So what the hell are we doing wrong in Jersey?

It transpires that the criteria to be on a stand from the UK is that you have to "add value" to that product within the UK, such as roast and pack coffee. At last! common sense prevailing.

Given we have an Economic development department deparate to grow our Economy wouldn't it make sense if they paid a lot more attention to the potential export opportunites that local businesses like mine can provide? Export earnings = economic growth!

Come on Economic Development, sort it out, we're doing great things here, and as Mr. Benson- Smith says "it's time Jersey stood up and shouted about why its produce is as good as it is, rather than letting it remain a delicious secret"

Friday, January 19, 2007

Jura Impressa J5 - One Hip Coffee Machine!

The latest bean to cup coffee machine from the Swiss company Jura has just arrived in our store and what a sleek looking coffee machine it is, a vision in White and Chrome.

Having brought out the C5 series to compete in the £500 - £600 price bracket, this machine appears to be attempting to fill the gap between the F90 (with its touch screen operation) and the top end Z5.

The machine is about 2 cm narrower than the Z5, however is the same depth. To accommodate this narrowing, the water tank has been reduced in size to decent 2.1 litres.

Machine operation is very simple, the fully automated cappuccino system found on the Z5 which I believe results in other buttons being made redundant has been abandoned in favour of making the coffee and milk separately. An auto-frothing device for the milk comes as standard as the traditional steam wand of earlier models is consigned to history. I'm not sure about this, but more about that later.

Let us get on with the important bit, making a cup of coffee!

The bean hopper is located as usual at the back of the machine, however a new device has now appeared entitled "Aroma protection". I hate to say it but as a coffee roaster I don't see how a plastic device with holes in it can stop flavour loss of coffee beans, maybe I missed something.

Ania felt that this device was impractical (there's a woman speaking!), and simply gets in the way without really doing anything (that's men for you!).

On the positive side the J5 has been fitted with a bean detector a feature from the Z5, which informs the user that they are low on beans.

If you choose to use pre-ground coffee, this hopper is located just in front of the grinder hopper. I say this because it took us a minute or two to find it. The manual isn't very clear, and because the lid is designed into the shape of the machine wasn't easy to spot. Once again Ania came to the rescue, it's probably Polish intuition!

The bit I do like is the programming of these machines. Jura have found a very simple system that allows a huge number of permutations. I have seen so many modern day coffee machines that need a manual to get you through the programming that in the end you give up. This is not the case with Jura. Once you understand the logic, and it is very logical you can change settings to your hearts content.

At last, the coffee. We chose to make an espresso and found that the water was running through the coffee very slowly. A simple adjustment to the grinder setting (a knob found on the top of the machine) soon saw the machine producing an excellent espresso.

I now move onto the milk. Now I'm sure this is a very British thing, and this is why I bemoan the loss of the traditional steam wand.

First of all I will say that creating steam is simple and straightforward and quick. Two button presses and you're ready.

The auto-frother is also very effective. This technology has come a long way in a very short time. By adjusting the settings on the auto-frother you can get either foam or steam milk (no bubbles).

The frothing bit I have no problems with and you get a terrific cappuccino, but the steamed milk for me is a problem. The problem is that the milk is drawn through the auto-frother so quickly that it barely has time to heat up the milk. Anyone with a smattering of Physics will know what I mean, the laws of thermodynamics.

The problem is that in the UK market, lattes are very popular a reflection of our appreciation of things American (I think that's a good thing!). Now a latte needs HOT! steamed milk, something the auto-frother is incapable of delivering no matter how much you fiddle around with it.

We were so concerned with this that we turned to the manual for help. Interestingly in the manual, they make no claim to delivering hot milk. They use the term "warm" milk. Very accurate, but why?

The simple solution surely is to supply an adaptor for the steam arm that allows you to steam milk to your hearts content. When you look in the neat little storage area on the top of the machine what do you find, an attachment for the steam arm that allows you to deliver more water! In the British market, we're all used to boiling a kettle for teas because we know of the limitations of a coffee machine (that's no disrespect to Jura, simply a fact in the UK market)

So please Jura, I know we're only an Island of 55 million people, but please can you put back our optional steam wand and get rid of the extending water spout, and we promise never complain again!

That's the only issue I have with this modern wonder of technology and I hope the message gets through to the boffins at Jura HQ.

Other than that we can't stop ourselves from stroking this machine everytime we go past, well the boys can't!

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Jersey milk (from the Island of Jersey) - Excellence in your coffee cup

A new year and a new test!

This time we at Coopers have been trying out the different types of milk readily available in the local Supermarkets and their impact on the taste of our coffee.

I had hoped to replicate the tabular format in my blog, but I'm such a luddite that I'm afraid its coming out as a list - However don't let this detract from the results!

Results of a tasting of different Jersey Dairy products in coffee carried out by Cooper & Co. on January 16th 2007

Coffee maker: French Press or Cafetière
Coffee type: Medium roasted Brazil Daterra Sunrise
Quantity of coffee used: Approx. 50g

We wanted to establish the impact of different levels of fat content on the flavour of the drink.

We used: Fresh Milk, Long life milk (UHT) and finally Cream
A desert spoon of liquid was added to each drink to ensure consistency

To understand the list, it goes as follows: Milk type, colour of drink following the addition of the milk, and finally our tasting notes.

Fresh Milk

Fresh Blue milk
(1.8% fat content)
Darkish in colour
This type of coffee maker produces a thinner style of coffee, and the Blue milk with its low fat content doesn’t do anything to enhance the flavour or sense of wateriness in the mouth

Fresh Green milk
(3% fat content)
Medium dark in colour
Slightly thicker mouth feel, with the acidity of the coffee dampened down

Fresh Yellow milk
(6% fat content)
Medium brown in colour. Some fat globules floating on the surface
Outstanding! – We all agreed that the texture in the mouth, and the way in which the flavour of the coffee was mellowed made this a wonderful drink.

Long life milk

Orange pack
(0.3% fat content)
Very dark
Sadly, quite unpleasant. The wateriness I talked about earlier is even more pronounced. If anything this milk actually increases the sense of bitterness in the mouth.

Blue pack
Currently out of stock

Yellow pack
Light brown, with noticeable globules of fat appearing on the surface of the drink
Very good - Not quite as good in the mouth as its fresh equivalent, but still really compliments the coffee taste experience.

Cream

Whipping Cream
Light brown, with as you would expect a lot of floating fat globules
Good flavour, however the cream is starting to overwhelm the coffee flavour. The two yellow milk tests certainly came through a lot better.

Double cream
Very light brown appearance. Cream struggling to dissolve into the coffee
Totally overwhelms the coffee. The only thing we could taste was the cream.

So in conclusion we believe that all coffee should use the highest fat content fresh milk (yellow) to deliver the most enjoyable cup of French Press (Cafetiere) coffee.

Isn't it infuriating that in this day and age when we are so obsessed with our levels of fat intake that we are actually spoiling our enjoyment of a great beverage.

Next week we here at Coopers will throw caution to the wind and use only Jersey fresh Yellow milk in all our drink offerings - No compromise!

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Tourism Brochures - you've got to laugh!

Those in the Tourism industry will know that the latest glossy magazines namely "Jersey Holiday Guide" and "Pure Jersey" have recently been dispatched and are in the process of hitting the door mats (people do still have door mats don't they?) of what they hope will be potential visitors to this beautiful Island.

Now I don't know who is responsible for designing these things , but I would suggest it looks very much like a committee, oh dear!

Not being au fait with the Hotel grading system I have to tread a little carefully, however I would suggest that not a great deal of imagination has gone into the layout of the Accommodation page in the "pure Jersey" brochure.

Lets start with the "Graded Hotels" - 4*, 3*, 2* 1*, so far so good, but hey what's this we've gone back up to 5*, and then 4* again. Eulah Country House Hotel should therefore by rights be at the top of the page?

But no, if you cross reference the "Jersey Holiday Guide" advertisers list on page 112, Eulah Country house appears under "Guest Accomodation!" ah, so that's why it's not at the top of the pJ guide, but then shouldn't they appear under the pJ heading of "Guest accomodation?

La Haule manor too seem to have got trapped in this nether world as well? Didn't anybody bother to proof read this?

But of course we all know (?) the diamond grading system has been done away with, well everybody apart from the Jh guide. The Lavender Villas application must have got lost in the post! Well the Jh's post, but not you'll be pleased to hear the pJ's post!

It also appears that even the advertisers are confused. Condor Breaks.com on p.52 of pJ tells us that both Mayfair and Metropole are 2* Hotels. Didn't anyone tell them that the Metropole is now 3*? I'm not quite sure what happened to the poor old Mayfair. I have a suspicion that they too are reclassified as 3*, but still appear in the 2* section. Then again I could be wrong, couldn't I?

I could go on, as a potential visitor to this Island went on to me about these brochures, but I'd probably loose the will to live!

I have tried to be humourous in this Blog, because at the end of the day we all make mistakes. What I find though really infuriating is that this industry is really under pressure at the present time and it is vital that a professional image is conveyed to potential visitors.

A business has been hired to produce this brochure for I'm sure a considerable amount of money, surely we (the people of Jersey) are entitled to expect something better than what on the face of it appear to be schoolboy errors going out to potential customers.

Friday, January 05, 2007

Coffee tasting on BBC Radio Jersey

Your chance to hear Lynsey Beahan talking to me about coffee on her Saturday morning programme between 6 a.m. and 9 a.m. on 6th January.

We did a whirlwind tasting of coffees from around the world, I'll leave it to Lynsey to give you her thoughts and impressions, but I hope that if you are a coffee lover you'll learn something about an amazing industry. Where the 3rd world meets the first world.

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Post Christmas Espresso machine issues

Well you've bought that espresso machine that you've always wanted but it appears to be doing one or two odd things that don't seem to be covered in the manual!

Well you'll be pleased to hear that you're not alone as the post Christmas dust settles.

The most common problem appears to be inadvertantly getting an airlock in the boiler of the machine. This is usually the result of the water tank running dry. The result is that no matter how much water you put in the tank the machine is unable to pump any water through the system.

The solution couldn't be easier:

1. Switch off the machine
2. Place a cup under the steam wand and open the valve
3. Switch on the machine
4. Press or switch to "on" the button /knob that usually drives the water through the coffee. After a few seconds the water should start to come through the steam wand.
5. Close the steam valve and move the cup to under the "group head" (that's where the coffee group handle is placed). Water should now start to pour through the group head.
6. Turn off the pump and wait for the machine to heat up.

Problem solved!

The second issue has been one of the coffee apparently being cold despite a good extraction having been achieved.

In the UK at this time that's usually the result of using a cold cup.

If you warm up your machine properly before making the coffee, why not leave the cup under the group handle and run the warming water into it. Tip away the water and hey presto you have one warmed cup!

The final issue has been making a Latte.

The problem is that all the attachments fitted to steam wands these days are designed to make frothing the milk easy. That of course is based on the assumption that you want to make a Cappuccino. But a Latte only requires steamed milk and you really don't want to start microwaving it, otherwise what is the point of buying a fancy machine.

This is one issue that is challenging and I do think that machine manufacturers should look at their design criteria. Solutions have been found on machines that cost £500 +, but what happened to the £100 + machines given the technology is so simple?

My suggestion is to heat the milk using the steam wand in the normal way. You need the milk to be around 10 degrees hotter for a Latte than for a Cappuccino.

Once you've heated the milk to the desired temperature, tap the container on the counter top. This will have the effect of separating out the liquid from the foam within the container.

Next get a spoon and use it to hold back the foam as you pour the milk into your coffee cup. The liquid milk should pour out easily from under the foam. The limitation is the fact that you are left with a lot of unwanted foam hence my plea to manufacturers.

That sums up the main issues we've seen so far. I'll post any additional tips as they come in.

Happy New Year!

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Consumerism v A caring society

It’s around this time of year that the financial press determines who the winners and losers in the battle for the pound in our pocket were over the Christmas period. Has the Internet now got the upper hand or is there still a future for the high street?

One of the battles that has been raging over the last few years has been the rights and wrongs of maintaining what a number of people see as the anachronistic and restrictive Sunday trading laws. As the owner of a business on Jersey I too have been paying a lot of attention to the changing shopping habits of our customers.

The argument has always been that there is no point in opening on a Sunday as you are simply spreading customer spending over seven days rather than six with the additional costs that that incurs. This thinking runs against what is happening in the UK where 24 hour shopping has now become commonplace particularly amongst the big players such as Tesco. Is this them being greedy, or are they simply responding to the demands made by their customers? After all the Internet doesn’t stop on Sunday. Society is changing, traditional hours of work; 9 – 5, Monday to Friday are increasingly being replaced by much more flexible arrangements. Not unreasonably therefore businesses in the UK have responded by extending their opening hours reflecting the lifestyle of their customers.

This December I saw for the first time real enthusiasm from shoppers wishing to shop in St. Helier on Sunday. As someone who has been totally against Sunday shopping even in December this was painful to behold. I have always believed in keeping Sunday special, however I can’t help feeling a little old fashioned when clearly so many people look forward to the opportunity.

There was even disagreement within the Market Traders normally a bastion of tradition as to the wisdom of remaining closed on Christmas eve, even though it “inconveniently” fell on a Sunday. They did stay closed but was that a sensible business decision given that so many of their competitors remained open? Or is that not really the point?

Have we become so obsessed with “shopping till we drop” that we’ve forgotten why Christmas and Sunday is so special and must continue to be respected?

I don’t believe that we really have; my second experience was on the Saturday before Christmas when in a farmers shed in deepest Trinity over 700 people didn’t go shopping, but instead came together to watch a traditional nativity play involving children and animals in a draughty barn. Why?

Was it a guilty conscience, the need to put “Christ back into Christmas?” or was it something deeper, a realisation of the importance of sharing something special with fellow human beings? Isn’t it at times like this that we truly value being part of a caring society?

So if we give up Sunday as an “official” day of rest what might be the consequences to our society? It’s not about more people going to Church, but about families being given an opportunity to do something together. Watch a son or daughter playing sport, sitting around a table together without the need to be somewhere, and yes even going to Church.

As always in society we have a choice, what choices will we make in 2007?

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Trends we've seen this Christmas

I write this blog with two trading days to go before the Christmas holiday period begins, crucial to the final sales figures of the year. So what have we seen so far?

The star performer without a doubt has been the Gaggia Evolution espresso machine. I know that there has been a lot of press on this machine, and I expected to see a large number of sales through our website, but this hasn't been the case. All our sales of this machine have been through our shop. I guess when it comes to larger ticket items customers still want to touch and feel the product, as well as being talked into buying it. Old fashioned stores haven't died out just yet!

It will be interesting to hear how people get on over Christmas with their new machines. In the past we have experienced a large number of enquiries post Christmas with customers wanting more information as to how to get the optimum performance out of their machines. I hope we have reduced this somewhat with our own help sheet which we provided for each machine sold and which can be found in a previous blog. Time will tell!

As far as coffee is concerned, the Old Brown Java has been a real hit this year. A coffee we only introduced a couple of months ago has gone down a storm. The coffee equivalent of a full blooded red wine. I tasted it the other day in a Cafetiere (French press) and was really impressed with its earthiness, base notes and pungency. Not everyone's idea of a great coffee, but if you love coffee, it's a must.

A hit on our website has been La Chocolaterie, a cafetiere for drinking chocolate. Not sure why that is, but clearly there is a demand for a method that makes a wonderfully creamy drink. Although not yet on our website, our Mexican spiced chocolate works fantastically in this format.

Finally on the tea side, a good deal of interest has been shown in Rooibos (Red bush) tea. So much so that we've currently run out of stock until after Christmas. We introduced a couple of flavoured varieties and these too have gone well. A great drink that's caffeine free.

Thank-you to all of those who have done business with Cooper & Co this year, we hope to see you again and to those who have yet to try us, you won't be disappointed.

Happy Christmas to one and all, may it be a peaceful time whereever you are.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Jersey Enterprise awards - A tale of extraordinary diversity in adversity

Well today was judgement day in the Enterprise awards, as we the judges deliberated at length on which businesses we believe stand out above the rest in the Small, Medium and Large business categories.

As the owner of a small business I could empathise with many of the entrants as they battle to seek that point of differentiation which enables them to deliver long term sustainable value to their stakeholders.

What is so incredible was the sheer diversity of businesses - specialist shoe companies, wine makers, diamond experts, oyster farms, pr companies, web companies, architects, the list goes on.

When you think that there are around 2,500 businesses on Jersey that employ between 2 and 10 people, it does make you wonder what everyone else does.

So why is the only game in town as far as the politicians are concerned, Finance?

If finance left tomorrow what kind of state would our economy be in? Small business entrepreneurs need to be encouraged to ensure that the Jersey economy has diversity.

That doesn't mean that it wouldn't be a complete disaster if Finance left the Island, it does however mean that there might at least be the seeds of something to take its place, rather than a desert.

At the buffet lunch today where the judges got to meet the entrants, much of the talk was about the Regulations of Undertakings law. For those uninitiated in the employment rules of Jersey, Government has the ability to restrict the number of people a business can employ. The reason is because this is seen as a major tool in controlling population growth.

Although businesses can make applications to the department requesting an increase in the number of people employed, the process can be long and drawn out, particularly when non-qualified people are required.

Small business doesn't have the luxury of time. Growth doesn't happen in a straight line. There is usually a window of opportunity in which to make a significant move, however this is a foreign concept to Government.

As much as Government say they treat cases sympathetically, this only occurs after the correct forms have been filled out. There is a sense that entrepreneurs are seen as fugitives not yet behind bars and something as dodgy as an informal conversation is frowned upon.

Yet as seen in the enterprise awards entrepreneurs generate wealth, they employ people, and if encouraged to export can bring additional wealth to the Island.

Government is changing, but it's a long drawn out affair. You only have to witness what is currently happening to the Jersey Milk Marketing Board which the Managing Director described as "death by a thousand cuts" to understand the potentially disasterous impact that Government interference can have on business.

To paraphrase a famous saying and something that is appropriate when the next elections come round "ask not what you can do for your Government, ask what your Government can do for you" (with apologies to JF Kennedy)

Thursday, December 07, 2006

The perfect cup of coffee?

So is there such a thing as the perfect cup of coffee? I personally don't believe there is. If there was wouldn't life be boring! We'd all be drinking one type of wine, cooking our vegetables in one type of way, there'd be no variety. After all the human experience is all about expressing our differences and then enjoying them.

Now I know you're all wondering where this is leading to. Well I had a chat with some of the individuals that I know who make great coffees, two of them work here at Coopers of Jersey, the third works for the Jersey Pottery out of their Bond street coffee shop.

First of all Pedro - He enjoys a long white coffee, I guess technically it is an Americano with a twist.

Pedro reckons that our Old Brown Java is the best coffee. He used to prefer the Monsooned Malabar, but finds that the Jave has more punch.

Pedro fills his cup with a double shot of espresso coffee, about 1/3rd of the total volume.

Then he add a further 1/3rd of hot water.

Finally he pours in cold milk (semi skimmed), to fill the cup.

He then places the steam wand of the espresso machine into the drink and heats the whole drink. No attempt is made to create any foam.

Pedro says that it's important not to heat the drink too much. "You should be able to drink it as soon as you've made it".

I've tasted this drink on many occasions and I have to say I'm mighty impressed.

Now it's Ania's turn -

I reckon that Ania makes one of the best Latte's I've ever tasted. She achieves great balance in the drink.

At the moment the Costa Rica Tarazzu is Ania's favourite however she has a sneeking regard for Monsooned Malabar, interestingly she finds the Old Brown Java a little too strong for her taste (vive la difference!)

First of all Ania half fills the latte glass with warm water. This stays there right up until the moment she's ready to pour in the milk.

She makes a double shot espresso, however only uses one shot.

She then heats the milk carefully, stretching it slightly, working on the texture, rather than creating huge bubbles. She places her hand on the side of the milk pitcher whilst she heats it so that she can monitor the temperature.

Next she empties the water from the glass and fills the glass with a combination of foam and milk (this she "free pours").

Then over the back of a spoon she pours the shot of espresso slowly into the milk to create a dark layer of coffee halfway down the glass.

Finally she dusts the drink with cocoa powder.

A brilliant concoction!

Finally Chris at the Jersey Pottery coffee shop on Bond street comes highly recommenced from a customer of mine. She tells me he makes the best cappuccinos she's ever tasted.

Into a large warm cappuccino cup Chris pours a double shot of espresso coffee.

Next he sprinkles on a combination of cinnamon and cocoa powder on to the crema of the espresso.

He now foams the milk carefully to ensure that he gets a velvety texture.

He then free pours the milk / foam combination onto the espresso, moving the pitcher so that the shape of a leaf appears on the top of the drink. A little latte art for good measure.

That's it! If you have an absolute favourite formula let me know. The more great cups of coffee sold, the better for the industry, and the better the rewards for those who grow it.

I'm hoping to be able to add Stefan's latte to this blog tomorrow.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

How to get the most out of your Espresso machine this Christmas

It's the time of year when we sell espresso coffee machines like they're going out of fashion.

However we know that a lot of you wll be disappointed with the results of your first attempt at making an espresso based drink, whether it be an espresso, cappuccino or latte.

As a result I, Stefan and Ania have come up with a few top tips so that you get the most out of your espresso machine this coming holiday.

Ania first - Read the manufacturers instructions

Now I know that may sound obvious, but Ania knows what men are like. They see the shiney new machine plug it in and then try and work out how to use it with the instructions still in the box. It does only take 5 minutes to read the instructions, time Ania believes is well spent.

Stefan next - Take your time! - get organised

This is not a drink to be rushed. Make sure you warm up the machine properly before making a coffee. That includes group handles and cups. Only heat sufficient milk to make a couple of drinks maximum at a time. Chill out, enjoy the fact that it takes time to make great coffee.

Finally, David - Don't make the drinks too big

A great cappuccino only needs a shot of espresso in a 5 oz cup, topped out with milk and foam. You'll really appreciate the intense, balanced flavour far more than if you have a cup the size of a bucket.

.....and a couple of other points

Make the coffee first, then steam the milk, and once you have sufficient foam, pour straight on to the coffee, don't wait for the milk to settle.

Always use fresh cold milk, half fat will foam just fine. Reheating milk will not create any more foam.

Don't overheat the milk, there is a fine balance between a caramel taste remaining and the milk becoming almost bitter. Caramel enhances, bitter does not.

Always "flash" the steam wand after use, this gets rid of any excess milk that has made its way up the inside of the steam wand and will save you long term maintenance problems

Keep the machine clean, used grounds will not enhance the taste of your next coffee as they say, cleanliness is next to Godliness!

Have a great Christmas enhanced we hope by a cup of Coopers coffee!

Friday, November 24, 2006

You don't have to be a celebrity to be brilliant!

There's a restaurant here on Jersey that through the efforts of many different individuals is becoming increasingly internationally renouned.

It's name is Bohemia and the chefs name is Shaun Rankin. As the Independent on Sunday newspaper puts it "he has no television show, no sponsorship deals, no syndicated magazine column and no new cookery book, yet for my money Shaun Rankin is one of the most gifted, highly polished chefs in the British Isles".

Although not mentioned in the article Lawrence Huggler and his family have to be given some credit for taking the immense commercial risk of investing many millions of pounds in this venture, which combines The Club and Spa with Bohemia Restaurant to give a truly remarkable offering in the hospitality industry here on Jersey.

Shaun goes on to acknowledge the fact that Jersey offers a superb range of local ingredients. "I wish I could do more for the producers and bring them into the limelight....the guys bending over for eigth hours a day picking herbs and Jersey Royals".

As a businessman on Jersey supplying restaurants like Bohemia, we sometimes forget how high the standard of cuisine is on an island only 9 miles x 5 miles. Their efforts allow businesses like mine to bring in products which ordinarily we might not consider in such a small market. They also spur us on to new heights which I hope one day will result in a thriving export market under the Jersey brand.

It's a team effort and with competition nowadays coming from so many different parts of the world it's vital that Jersey businesses step up to the plate, not just as individuals, but united under the Jersey banner.

P.S. For the curious, the coffee we supply to Bohemia is our Bourbon Dark blend for espresso and a blend of Kenya Estate and Colombian Fair Trade coffees for their cafetieres. All hand roasted by us here on Jersey.

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Jersey Supermarkets on Radio 4

As Chair of the Jersey Chamber Small Business Group I tend to get requests to do interviews whenever there is a potential threat on the horizon to the small business community.

Well a few weeks ago I had such a request from BBC Radio Jersey who were doing a piece for the BBC Radio 4 programme "You and yours".

Out of the blue today I got a call from a friend of mine to say that the programme had been aired and had I heard it?

It got me reflecting though on how fast things change. Since that interview, Le Masurier have put forward plans to build a new supermarket etc. in Bath street, whilst Channel Island Traders, the owners of the Le Riche brand have put forward a proposal on a site probably no more than 1,000 metres away also in St. Helier.

Is it a good thing or a bad thing? Well the debate rages - As I've said before the political will is there, but do the economics add up? There is after all only one cake on Jersey and all that happens is that that cake gets sliced up in a different way as market share changes hand.

The loosers I fear though may well be many small businesses, the old Central Market with its Fruit and Veg offering? Who knows? The winners, well the theory is the consumer in the form of lower food prices, however is this sustainable over the longer period given the logistics of getting things to this Island?

It's a tough call, but maybe ultimately it comes own to us as individuals, what do we really want? Jersey is a special place, it's different, and it's different because of its diversity. Surely it's all too easy to throw that all away for the sake of cheaper bread and milk, but then again if you are unfortunate enough to be below the poverty line, your qualiy of life won't be that great either, and you'll be one of those cheering on a new Supermarket offering.

I hope we all get the opportunity to debate this point before any decisions are made, in the mean time have a listen to this 5 minute piece, be warned you need to choose the "Co-Op" sound bite, the BBC seemed to have mixed up their segways. http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/youandyours/listenagain/wednesday.shtml

Monday, November 20, 2006

Rainforest Alliance Coffee tasting

I understand from those in the know, that the Rainforest Alliance people have been criticised for not putting themselves about enough in the UK when it comes to promoting coffee that they have certified.

It would appear that they are now making amends for this apparent omission by doing a "Sustainable Quality Coffee Tasting" in London on the 29th of November. The exact location is Canning House, 2 Belgrave Square.

We're excited because it's the first time that coffee roasted by us will be seen and tated at a major UK event.

We've normally been very reticent in this area, however because we now have the ability to supply coffee from a farm that I have visited and can vouch for, we've decided to tell the world or at least those who'll be attending this event!

The coffee we've selected is from the Daterra Farm in Brazil, and are their Sunrise and Bruzzi selections. We think that they are not only great coffees, but also that they truly represent sustainable coffee. They don't just talk the talk, they walk the walk.

If there were more farms on this planet like Daterra then we could all rest assured that the planet was in good hands. (and, no I don't have shares in the Farm!)

Of course if you can't get to the London event I wouldn't be doing my job if I didn't tell you that you could buy both of these exceptional coffees from our website. Sunrise is great for Filters and Cafetiere, Bruzzi for all espresso based drinks.

Enjoy!

Friday, November 17, 2006

Green Tea - They may be healthy but!

We had the dubious pleasure of tasting our green tea offering yesterday. I profess at the start of this blog of not being a great fan of straight green tea, however I know there are a lot of you out there who love the stuff, and the Chinese and Japanese having been producing it for centuries, so it's probably me.

Of course Green tea has become known in the west for its health giving properties, it helps protect against Cancer, high cholesterol levels and many other nasties found in our society today. It does however contain caffeine, a fact not always that well known.

First of all a brief resume of why green tea is green and not black.

The tea is what is known as "unfermented tea". To stop the fermentation process, the tea has to be what is termed "fixed". This is done by steaming the leaves for a very short period of time. This has the effect of killing the enzymes that cause the oxidization process to take place. The result is that the chlorophyll still remains in the leaves and is why green tea is green.

Next the tea is kneaded, then dried for around ten hours during which time it is constantly turned and finally rolled according to the grade required. It never ceases to amaze me how much effort is expended in producing this simple beverage, and also for such little reward.

I start with our China Gunpowder Green Tea. It is so called because it is rolled into small balls, which is what (so I'm told) old fashioned gunpowder looks like.

From out tasting session, the amount of tea you use and length of time you brew it for are very critical in ones overall enjoyment.

We experimented first using a regular amount of tea and brewing for about 4 minutes. This we found was totally excessive. It led to a powerful pungent taste and smell, almost undrinkable. The infusion itself looked quite muddy.

The next thing we did was to pour away the liquid and reinfuse the leaves with freshly boiled water, this gave us a much improved brew. A much clearer infusion and quite palletable.

Finally we used a much smaller quantity of leaves, and infused for only a couple of minutes, what a difference. Although I have to say I don't find the taste of green tea particularly pleasant, flavoured with a slice of lemon, or Egyptian mint does help in its enjoyment.

The next tea we tasted was our Young Hyson offering. As suggested by its name it is made from young to medium leaves. Visually the leaves are short and fine and slightly twisted.

There are many types of Young Hyson, we carry the Chun Mee variety.

When infused this tea has a bright clear green liquor. Having learnt from our previous tasting experience, we kept the quantity of leaves down as well as the infusion time.

It still produced a pungent brew, however I felt that overall it was a much smoother and more pleasant taste than the Gunpowder. (I now see Gunpowder sales plummeting! - sorry, please don't be too hasty in your judgement!)

If you, like me aren't really a green tea drinker, but feel the need to try something cleansing, I would suggest trying our Lemon Sencha green tea. The lemon has a wonderful fragrance and is delivered into the cup. I find this combination of flavours much more enjoyable, however do take on board my comments above about the issues of quantity of tea used and the time needed for infusion.

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

The Renaissance of the Grand Hotel

I was last night invited by Gregor Ritchie the joint managing director of Hilwood Resorts & Hotels to a dinner with his team and other members of the local business community at the Grand Hotel. His group acquired the Hotel from De Vere's earlier on this year and are now setting about carrying out a £15 million refit.

Mr. Ritchie gave us a whistle stop tour of the plans, which I have to say were breathtaking and shows a real confidence in the future of the Jersey economy.

In the past we have experienced overseas investors who have ignored local suppliers due to a policy of centralised purchasing, however Mr. Ritchie is keen to use local suppliers where appropriate, a refreshing change. This is of course fantastic as it will keep money in the local economy at a time when we are all being asked to pay more in taxes.

We are really priviledged on Jersey that a number of entrpreneurs have shown a willingness to make some major investments in the Island in recent times. The Atlantic Hotel, Hotel de France and The Club and Spa have all helped to raise the bar.

Isn't it great that Mr. Ritchie and his team wants the Grand to once again join this illustrious list as he seeks it to become a 5 star hotel. What it also means is that the local suppliers will also need to raise their bars to justify his support.

I for one can't wait

Jersey Airport - A move in the right direction

At last! some light at the end of the tunnel. British Airways have announced the launch of a new early afternoon flight between Jersey and London Gatwick, increasing their capacity by some 20%. The new flights start on the 25th of March 2007 and we hope will bring more visitors to this wonderful Island. Well done to Julian Green and his team, as the BA spokesperson said it shows what can be done when Airlines and Airports work together.

The days of sofas in the baggage reclaim hall draw nearer!

Win, win, win

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Kenya Peaberry Coffee - Another outstanding coffee from Kenya

The first thing you notice about Kenya peaberry is the beauty of the shape of the raw coffee beans. Whereas usually you get two beans from a berry, peaberry as the name suggests only produces a single round bean.

I'm not quite sure if this is by accident or design, however what I do know is that these beans are separated from the regular beans during the sorting process.

As is usual with Kenya coffees it is washed, giving a very clean cup.

Once again we tried two different roast styles, a light medium and a medium roast.

Once brewed the most noticeable feature about the coffee is its wondeful aroma. I probably go on about this a bit too much, but it has a great wiff 0f wild berries. Stefan's first impression was that he could drink this all day, and black.

Ania, who isn't a great fan of Kenya coffee, felt that this was the best Kenya she had tasted.

It does have that classic acid, fruit taste of Kenya, however it also has a little more body than its Estate equivalent.

A complete contrast to the Old Brown Java, which consists almost entirely of low notes, and which incidentially made a fabulous espresso.

Our recommendation for this coffee is to make it in a Cafetiere (French press) or filter, unless you're really brave it's probably advisable to stay away from the espresso machine on this one.

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Coffee to inspire the connoisseur!

I've decided to change some of the coffees we offer in our shop a) because I like to keep things fresh, but also b) because each coffee we sell has to earn its place in our selection.

The coffees we tasted today were, Kenya peaberry, Ethiopian Harrar and Old Brown Java. We're currently experimenting with the roast colour, and so far only the Java has been agreed.

All of the coffees though are outstanding and very distinctive. We did the initial tasting in the shop, and the level of interest from our customers was superb.

I'll start on this blog with the Old Brown Java. The word old is used, because the coffee has been "aged", that is left in the warehouses prior to shipment for anything between 2 and 3 years. This in itself has a major impact on flavour, as the acidity levels in the coffee drop dramatically. The raw coffee also has a wonderful aroma of old sacks! A really earthy feel to it.

What is noticeable with the raw beans, which by now have lost there initial greenness and instead are a light tan is the range of sizes. It would appear that very little screening takes place at origin so as a roaster I'm concerned about how I'm going to achieve a consistent roast colour. The only way it would seem is to go dark.

We roasted the coffee to a full medium colour as well as to a dark roast and tasted the resulting brew. Our initial impression was that the lighter roasted coffee didn't seem to have much flavour and was rather flat, however what a difference going just a little darker made to our overall impression.

The liquor was a wonderful full dark colour, however the taste was very smooth, with a slightly nutty flavour coming through in both the taste and aroma. In fact it reminded us all of the Monsooned Malabar offering, despite being roasted significantly darker.

Following the tasting we made up a cafetiere (french press) of this coffee and all agreed what a great tasting coffee this is. Despite its dark colour I found it very palatable as a black coffee, the lack of acidity really helps here.

I'm looking forward to tasting it as an espresso, which I'll hopefully do tomorrow.

By the way for those of you interested in the details about the origin of this coffee, it comes from near the Kawah Ijen in the east of Java.

It really is a pleasure to be able to offer this coffee to you once again after many years absence. It will be available from our website in the next couple of days.

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Lapsang Souchong Tea - an acquired taste!

We continued on our tea tasting today with one of our more exotic teas, namely Lapsang Souchong.

It has a magnificent smokey aroma, which combined with its wonderfully large rolled leaves creates a lasting impression. Once tried, never forgotten!

Of course such a tea has to come with its own legend of discovery and I'm pleased to say that our research didn't let us down.

The Legend goes as follows. During the Qing dynasty, an army unit passing through Xingcun (Star Village) camped in a tea factory filled with fresh leaves awaiting processing. When the soldiers left and the workers were allowed back to their businesses, they realized that if the tea was to arrive at market in time, they couldn't allow the leaves to dry in the normal way. So they lit some open fires of pine wood to speed up the drying process. Not only did the tea reach the market in time, but the smoked pine flavor created the taste and aroma we experience today.

Once you get past the smoke and tar flavours, the tea has a rich and malty flavour, and brews to a deep red colour. Although this tea can be drunk with milk, there seems little point as it is totally overwhelmed by the other flavours.

Once again I felt quite frustrated in my research at the lack of detailed information on this truly historic tea. There is no growing information easily available, apart from the fact that it is grown in the vast province of Fujian, and that the tea originally came from the Zheng Shan part of Mount Wuyi. This is fine, but where does this tea particularly come from?